41. Distressed knit


Maison Martin Margiela distressed knitted top. The A/W 2000 show was replete with distressed knitwear by Miss Deanna Ferretti Veroni, a complete master of her craft, showing a comprehensive understanding of garment production. An original design from that very runway, this knitted turtleneck top features the holes, fraying, and creases that made it famous. Een composite van 34% wool, 33% nylon en 33% mohair. Waffle knit, brushed texture, and distressed detailing with ribbed trims. Slight discoloration. Size medium.



For more information e-mail us at wemargiela@mintfilm.nl



Lucia Zanni, collection manager Miss Deanna



[00:21:17.13] Lucia: Yes we had a lot of freedom, he gave you some ideas and then when he came back we made a lot of suggestions, and he responded to that, he intuitively chose what appealed to him the most and from there we started working on something more concrete, to finally end up with what he he came up with already executed and so that was the interesting thing. When we made experiments with Deanne we never threw anything away, nothing was thrown away, we also showed him everything that had gone wrong, because often of those mistakes, parenthesis mistakes, but more things that weren’t requested, or didn’t turn out well, he found leads there to get his things out, the hole, the cut sleeve, frayed, worn out, all these kinds of things, accidentally originated, made him create extreme new things, which changed the view of fashion extremely, in the world of fashion, but also in general.



Lutz Huelle, artisanale and knitwear designer



In a way Margiela streetwise they were kind of dirty. second hand clothes, t-shirts. it was what I thought women were like. All the people around me were like. The women that I knew were like that. They weren’t glossy figures in magazines. they were wearing denim jackets, jeans, a tank top and something there. It felt real to me. Because fashion in the 80s was so glossy. It was such an unattainable thing that you could see in magazines. It was nothing to do with you life. At least not in my life. Maybe…



[00:51:02.22]



… it had to do with some peoples lives but it wasn’t mine. Martin had to do with my life, the people I knew. the people around me.
M. There is a big shift in sex in this. the 80s feels like really female body and tits and….
L. Very much old fashioned. No?
M. Yeah,
L. An old idea of what women have to be like of what women should be like. Should be feminine in an old way otherwise you are not a woman. that kind of thing. If you don’t want to seduce constantly you’re not a real woman. Being feminine is about being somebody who is passive, beautiful. I didn’t know anybody who was like that to be honest. I know women who were there. It corresponded to what I felt.



[01:09:01.26]



M. No but it’s also what is Nice? And the knitwear of Margiela was a very specific. Could you describe the quality of the knitwear designs. Because we were at Miss Diane, and we were at Modoteka. And we have seen 8000 pieces of knitwear and I can tell you it’s a very specific part of the Margiela clothing. Could you describe for me how you would…
L. There were certain things that you knew… It had a slight… retro aspect to it. A little bit 70s a little 60s an old fashioned way of looking at sweaters. The finishings like bigger finishings here and here. It wasn’t fine, a little rustic. But designed so it wouldn’t be rustic as in old or… It was rustic but in a designed kind of way. It was also things that you would wear really really easily. It was always so easy to wear. Things you would put on because it has a slight used aspect to it. When I say used not only because they might have been washed or, but used as in you felt like they had been worn before. It was easy to put them on straight away. You know how new clothes…when they are really perfect can be daunting. you buy something and it stays there because you don’t feel like you can throw it on because it looks so amazing. With Margiela it was easy to put on the clothes because they looked as if they were already worn by you



[01:10:01.19]



M. I can remember from miss Diane that was a very specific assignent in a certain way to make the clothes look like they have been worn. And for her, at the factory it was something they had to research. How come a designer has an interest for making clothes look like they’ve been worn before. They could have been second hand or re-constructed from second hand…



[01:14:05.15]



L. (…) The idea of doing knitwear in that kind of way of used, slightly old, lived in. It was an easy logic.


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